Little Pearl
Little Pearl
Washington, DC

The Little Pearls turns out to be more like The Peregrina Pearl…

I love a great deal. If I’m being honest, I really love a great deal almost as much as I love an astoundingly great meal (which certainly explains some of the eyebrow raisers in my closet and my clinical-grade obsession with Amazon’s month-long Black Friday sale). With Little Pearl, a Washington DC jewel, off the beaten path, that is just what I found – 2 star food at bargain basement price. And just to clarify – I mean Michelin Stars, where 2 is great, not standard stars, where 2 is fairly crappy.

Chef Aaron Silverman’s latest brainchild, Little Pearl is clearly his attempt to earn some good karma by making his inspired and award-winning (James Beard best Chef mid-Atlantic and Best New Chef from Food & Wine in 2016) cuisine accessible to the masses (well, at least from a price standpoint). This is his answer for those who wish to dine at his other restaurants, Rose Luxury (named best restaurant in America in 2014 by Bon Appetite) or Pineapples and Pearls (and its 2-star $325 15-course tasting menu), but can’t deal with the intimidating wait or price tag.

But Little Pearl is certainly about more than just assuaging inconvenience or high cost – Silverman hired an awesome team of staff, making it a relaxed, entertaining environment where one can enjoy observing the banter. They are a fun-loving, down to earth and genuinely friendly group who “are not just colleagues, but all good friends who have one another’s backs. But, they also enjoy a god joke, particularly at each other’s expense” as one server put it to me as we all sampled a rare petnat at the bar at the end of the evening. Yeah, these aren’t just the guys that you want making and serving your food, these are the guys you want to share a drink with at the end of the day.

Little Pear is situated in a carriage house on the grounds of the Hill Center at the Old Naval Hospital. It isn’t likely that you’d just be wandering about and happen to chance upon – you make the schlep out specifically to visit Little Pearl. It has a couple of personalities: as a cafe by day, and a Michelin starred wine bar by night. Does the “star” carry over to the cafe during the day? Certainly yes – they don’t take it out every evening to magically raise the quality of the food – but i felt a bit goofy writing about the Michelin starred Cafe… However, this is part of what I mean about opening up the opportunity (to experience this level of food) to the masses – and this is where Silverman has earned enough karma that he isn’t going to have to come back, next time around.

The meal concept is interesting. For $49 (how freaking affordable is that), you are treated to the Chef’s whimsy with a 5-7 course meal of his choosing while politically correctly accommodating your dietary restrictions – it’s as I used to say to my children, you get what you get and you don’t get upset… you can add a beverage pairing for $39 (called funky pairing) or $49 (conventional boring pairing, I guess). I opted for the funky pairing and was pleasantly surprised by the wines offered. Three out of the four offerings of the evening were quite good – the bubbly at the top of the tasting was a clear miss though. But as a quote I saw earlier in the day in Georgetown noted “if you don’t ever fail, you are clearly not trying hard enough” – trying to inspire the undergrads, I suppose. My one suggestion is pour a little taste of each of the wines and if it isn’t to the patrons liking, have another option available. With these eclectic selections, it’s not unreasonable even if you have to up sell option 2.

My meal was a seven-course tour-de-force:
Chef’s signature Angel Eggs – lighter than air: float-away light whipped deviled egg filling on a tangy and delicately sweet merengue, dusted with chive powder and garnished with fresh chive.
Shrimp tempura, house aged ponzu and pork fat: melt in your mouth tempura shrimp with powdered pork fat and year old aged and therefore quite potent ponzu sauce.
Autumn squash soup with coconut milk and chana dal: a base of spicy coconut milk and roasted spiced chick pea with mint, cilantro and red onion with autumn squash soup poured over. Ok I was a bit taken aback- the soup was cold. I have to admit, this was my least favorite dish – I found it unnecessarily spicy and overwhelmingly cilantroy.
Fried green tomatoes with sun dried tomato aioli garnished with chives. To me, the well battered tomatoes to be largely flavorless, and essentially a vehicle for the aioli. The aioli, however, was creamy and the essence of sun dried tomatoes – packed with flavor.

Etole Tostada with charred corn, avacado crema, finely crumbled cheese, paprika and a few drops of lime to cut through the richness of the cheese. A portrait of balanced textures and contrasting flavors with crunchy, juicy and smooth textures and cool, spicy, sweet and rich flavors. Definitely my favorite dish of the evening and from what I hear a common sentiment.

Porchetta – pulled pork, smoked potato salad, brioche buns: The main course of the meal, the delicately spiced and Juliet pulled pork and pork belly roll (think slab of bacon) was decadent. I do wish the pork belly had less peppercorn, but understand what chef was going for. The potato salad was rich and creamy, and the radish slivers garnishing added a bit of bite in texture and flavor. The bun was comfort food at its best.
Truffle tart: chocolate ganache, truffle ice cream, hazelnuts. The chocolate tart was incredible – again rich and luxurious. I thought the truffle ice cream was a miss, which is surprising given that I love both elements separately. The flavor came off just a bit artificial.

Hanging with Cosmo

Look closely at the bill 

It has the menu  with some unordered additions!

Final Thoughts 
All in all, this was a terrific meal (at any price) that was creative, with some bold takes on relatively traditional dishes. As with any such endeavor, some were absolute hits (Angel Eggs, Shrimp Tempura, tostada and chocolate tart) while others didn’t appeal to me as much (soup, pork belly and truffle ice cream). I’d dare to wager that the list will very for each individual and so I’d love to hear about your personal experience at Little Pearl.

One last note – the fun didn’t end with dessert. The team’s playful nature is also in full display when the bill arrives. I found itemized, not just items I had just eaten, but high-fives, hugs, and even a “whoo-hoo” – and while I didn’t actually receive any of these, the fact that they had the cheek to put these on the bill (with each ringing out to $0) was amusing and another glimpse into the light atmosphere at Little Pearl. Give the place a try and let me know what you think…