Gravitas

Gravitas

Washington DC

Urban Fine-Dining at Gravitas, Washington DC

Many areas in Washington DC are undergoing a facelift of sorts and buildings in these areas are being repurposed from their original industrial mission. If such gentrification is inevitable, then foodies (and us UnFoodies) may as well benefit. Towards that end, many of these warehouses and factories are being converted to chic restaurants. In keeping with this trend, Chef Matt Baker has taken an old tomato packing factory and transformed the space into Gravitas, a fine-dining mecca of innovation for locally sourced dishes.

This eclectic tasting menu-only restaurant, led by the young Chef Baker(he is barely over 30!!!), brings together flavors from the mid-Atlantic, Baker’s Houston upbringing, and his time working in Singapore and traveling throughout Asia. Diners used to be able to choose their own five- to seven-course meal from a list of around 20 dishes but nowadays you are the mercy of his mad genius – as you will read, not a bad thing at all.

The main dining area opens to the kitchen so if your seated in this area, you can watch the magic happen before your very eyes. We were seated in the tiny loft above the kitchen, which oversees the dining area – good for people watching as you enjoy your meal. The industrial vibe is very evident, from the roughly painted white brick walls, mixed glass pained windows and HVAC duct-laden ceiling. It has a certain charm, and I was left bemused that I was enjoying a fine-dining experience in such setting.

Our meal:

We were then treated to the first course – the appetizers.

  • White sweet potato soup with crab meat.
  • Fritter of cod belly with miso aioli
  • Round fritter of chick pea with a dollop of basil pesto.

All of these were delicious and to some degree, displayed the Asian tilt that Chef Baker is known for.

Next, the bread course made its appearance. A square of focaccia and a sweet roll served with freshly churned butter. Nothing fancy here, just simple goodness as a bread course should be.

 

After which, we were ready for the meal proper.

Yellowfin tuna sashimi with Osetra caviar.

Beautifully presented, the sashimi came garnished with shaved jalapeño, crispy (because it was fried) shallots and garlic dressed with soy vinaigrette. The plate was also dressed with 6 dollops of black sesame aioli which ironically was white. There was also a generous serving of Osetra caviar which paired unexpectedly well with the soy laced tuna. Tuna can be easily overwhelmed by strong flavors like soy, garlic or jalapeño but the delicate vinaigrette was light and garlic fried to soften the pungency, which enhanced the natural tuna flavor. The fusion of Asian (sashimi and soy) and western elements (caviar and chilies) worked surprisingly well together.

White truffle risotto

It’s been a while since I had a traditional risotto. Normally it is “adulterated” with seafood or a vegetable. This basic (meant as a compliment here) risotto with parmesan and chives was creamy and well cooked to al dente perfection. The truffles, were the primary flavor element and worked very well with the risotto. Truffles, creaminess and cheese – what more do I need to say?

Lobster with potato

Since my sweetie can’t eat truffles, she was given the option of having lobster. When explained to us while ordering, it was described as a lobster risotto, whihc she was very excited about. However, when the dish came out, it wasn’t a risotto, it was a lobster dish – we didn’t have the heart to send it back. The lobster tail was poached and then browned in the oven, served with lemongrass butter dressing, creamed mashed potato and fritters. I only had a bite of her dish, but enough to tell that this was a perfectly prepared lobster tail. So, if in Olympic competition, I’d have to take off points for the risotto miscommunication, they would largely be earned back through sheer yumminess.

Saffron tagliatelle

Freshly made saffron tagliatelle, served with Nantucket Bay scallops, fennel, uni emulsion and garnished with browned parmesan and diced fennel leaves. Another fusion of east (uni, saffron) with west (parmesan and tagliatelle pasta) that worked really well. The saffron was just the right delicate flavor to match with scallops and the hint of fennel and salty uni just accentuated the flavoring.

Poached halibut

Well cooked halibut, flakey and tender over a bed of cooked chard and heirloom beans bathed in pig trotter (yeah, it is exactly what it sounds like – pigs feet) jus. The hammy essence gave a little more depth to the otherwise mild halibut making this a dish with a more substantial flavor profile.

Roasted pheasant

A juicy and succulent piece of roasted pheasant, skin crisped with lavender honey glaze and garnished with a few dried lavender petals. The meat sat atop a mound of blanched bitter greens and a ginger rich grain. The plating was artistic with purée greens and huckleberry gastrique. The meat was best enjoyed with a piece of skin and dipped in the gastrique. The grains and greens provided relief to offset the sweet flavors on the plate.

Time for dessert: Tarte Taintin

Puff pastry rolls and caramel roasted apples sitting on a cardamom pudding with slices of Granny Smith apples drenched in a rum syrup. The star of the dish was the Calvados rum ice cream. This was a delicious desert that was light and satisfying – for me… unfortunately because my sweetie can’t have alcohol (yes, we mentioned this allergy at the start of the meal), we had to reach for the Benadryl after one bite. Unfortunate and a serious misstep in my book. However, our server did try to make up for it by bringing another dessert for her – one that was sans alcohol. Ya just don’t mess with allergies though!

Dessert #2: Berries and vanilla ice cream covered in a blanket of dark chocolate. Yummy? Yes, certainly. Make up for the misstep? Probably not quite.

Chef Baker graciously posing with me after the meal

Menu signed by kitchen staff

Final Thoughts 

Chef Baker actually was kind enough to take a few minutes to chat with us and pose for a few photos. He is a super gracious and humble guy, given all the accolades he has received (Singapore’s hottest chef and Zagat’s top 30 under 30 just to name a few). His creativity is evident through out the meal and I hope, one day, to sit at his 15-course chef’s table setting. That would be a destination dinner for which I’d be willing to travel across the country.

This was a very compelling meal, despite the couple of execution issues. I’m willing to shrug off most issues, but allergy snafus are a big deal to me, so I’m less inclined to let that slide. From a culinary standpoint, this meal was amazing, and Chef Baker’s reputation is well earned. Add to that his humble approach to the patrons at his establishment, and I’ll certainly be willing to give Gravitas another visit in the coming months.